![]() 11/26/2014 at 10:56 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
The XJ got inspected today, but the garage said it will definitely need a passenger Axle UJoint and Driver Ball-Joints in the next year. As I have some time off around Christmas and access to my dads much larger Garage, I'm planning on doing it on my own then. I'm going to do the ball joints on both sides instead, should i also do both ujoints while I'm there/anything else I should consider checking out while I have it apart? The two above were the only things that came back with the inspection.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 10:59 |
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http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/yamahog-travis…
This.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 11:00 |
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Front hubs and U-joints while you're at it. I had a hell of a time getting the old ball joints out of my '88 Cherokee. We ended up using a ramset gun to get them loose, which was ill-advised at best.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 11:01 |
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do you have the "Death Wobble" at speed, or is it still fairly straight?
![]() 11/26/2014 at 11:03 |
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Co-signed. Just ask that garage how much they want to do them, if yours is anywhere near as rusty as mine is it'll probably be a better use of your time. It's the only work on this thing I haven't done myself, no shame.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 11:09 |
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Nope, it tracks better than my preivous one did (that was two years newer).
![]() 11/26/2014 at 11:11 |
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Tie rods.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 11:12 |
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I know it dont have too much rust going on (surprising for the 164k miles that are on it). I'll get a quote from the garage, but I'd like to do it myself as I dont get a lot of time to do anything mechanical/with my hands at work, so I try to do it with any vehicle maintenance that i can. I'd also start hitting the bolts and everything ehre soon with PB Blaster to help get everything loose.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 11:13 |
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Any reason for suggesting the hub assembly?
![]() 11/26/2014 at 11:15 |
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Shits and giggles. From what I remember it's easy to do. At the least just check them to see if they still roll smooth.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 11:15 |
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well then I would just shake it down with your hands and a lever while you are crawling around. Get anything with play in it replaced proactively. Parts are cheap and usually local so you should be set there.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 11:17 |
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Tie rod ends and wheel bearings.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 11:42 |
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Your post was the first thing I thought of when I saw this, and I was going to recommend the same thing.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 11:43 |
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Yep, was going to suggest tie rod ends as well.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 11:45 |
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Whether you do the work yourself, or run into a yamahog mess and have a garage do it, make sure everything gets replaced with grease fittings on the parts, not sealed bits. Moog parts are really good, use those unless you know of something better.
Oh, and lube the f**k out of everything.
And like other people said, tie rod ends.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 12:42 |
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Will do! I plan on hitting everything with some PB blaster this weekend and once a week up until I get to fixing it, and everything will definitely be lubed. Thanks for the advice.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 12:43 |
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I'll definitely be looking into the Tie Rods. I dont remember if the previous owner had them changed or not, but if they look old I'll take care of those as well.
![]() 11/26/2014 at 13:45 |
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Let me clarify: mine is a 97 with barely any body rust. The hubs were still a nightmare. Grab a torch and a BFH!
![]() 11/26/2014 at 15:51 |
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I know you know this but don't forget to have it aligned after you do all the suspension work. It can really put angles out of wack with the nice new solid parts.